Broken Key in the Ignition

Key snapped in the ignition cylinder? Do not push it further. Here's what to do, what tools work, and when to call a professional.

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A key breaks inside the ignition cylinder when metal fatigue -- from thousands of insertions, a bent blade, or the extreme torque of trying to turn against a steering lock -- exceeds the key metal's tensile strength. The most common break point is at the bow (the plastic head end), leaving the blade trapped inside the cylinder. The second most common break is mid-blade, leaving a portion inside and a portion in your hand.

Possible Causes

Forced turning against steering lock

Very Common

Attempting to turn the key while the steering column lock is under full tension applies extreme torque that snaps the blade.

Metal fatigue from wear

Common

A key used daily for 10+ years develops micro-fractures at stress concentration points (notches in the blade cuts).

Previously bent key

Moderate

A bent key under additional turning stress breaks at the bend point.

The Immediate Response: Stop and Don't Push

The moment a key breaks in the ignition, stop all activity. Do not attempt to push the stub further in or out with another object. Do not insert another key hoping to push the stub out. Do not use superglue on another key or object to bond to the stub and pull -- superglue bonds to the cylinder wafers and creates a much harder extraction problem. Do not use WD-40 or any liquid lubricant. The broken stub is currently resting in whatever position it was in when the break occurred. If the break happened at the bow (head end), the stub occupies the key slot in the plug and may be at the LOCK position or any intermediate position. If the break happened while the key was turning, the stub may be at an intermediate position with the tumblers partially elevated.

Professional Extraction vs. DIY Attempt

Professional extraction is faster and safer than DIY for anything beyond a stub that is clearly protruding past the face of the cylinder. Professionally, we use hook extractors, spiral extractors, and in difficult cases partial cylinder disassembly. In most cases extraction takes 15 to 30 minutes and the cylinder is undamaged afterward. DIY extraction with needle-nose pliers works only if more than 5 to 6 mm of stub is protruding beyond the cylinder face. Grip the visible metal firmly and pull straight out -- no twisting. If the stub cannot be gripped, stop and call a professional. Wire hooks and bent paperclips frequently push the stub deeper rather than extracting it, making professional extraction more difficult.

Do This

Stop immediately and assess how much stub is accessible
If more than 5mm of blade is protruding, try needle-nose pliers with a straight pull
Call a professional locksmith if the stub is not accessible with pliers
Have a spare key ready for after the extraction (you will need a new key cut)

Don't Do This

Don't use superglue on the stub
Don't push anything further into the cylinder
Don't insert another key to push the stub
Don't spray lubricants into the cylinder

Frequently Asked Questions

The stub is extracted -- can I use the other half of the broken key?

No. The key has a metal fatigue failure at the break point. The remaining piece will break again at the same point or a nearby stress point. Cut a new key from code.