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Ignition Switch Repair & Replacement

Ignition switch failing? Electrical gremlins after a key turn? We replace ignition switches on-site -- same diagnosis and result as a shop, no tow needed.

Call Now: (912) 348-4006

30-60 Min Response

The ignition switch is the electrical component that the ignition cylinder mechanically operates -- two distinct parts that are frequently confused. When you turn your key, the cylinder rotates an actuator rod that physically rotates the ignition switch's contact drum or cam. This switch connects or disconnects circuits for the accessory (ACC), run, and start positions. A failed ignition switch can cause symptoms ranging from intermittent no-start to complete electrical failure, blown fuses, or a car that starts but immediately loses power.

Ignition switch failures became a major public safety issue following GM's 2014 recall of approximately 30 million vehicles fitted with a defective ignition switch design that allowed the key to slip from the RUN position to ACC or OFF when bumped -- shutting off the engine and disabling airbags and power steering during driving. This history underscores how critical a properly functioning ignition switch is to vehicle safety. We take ignition switch diagnosis and replacement seriously for this reason.

We replace ignition switches on-site for all common vehicle makes. The switch is located behind the ignition cylinder on the steering column, and accessing it typically requires removing the steering column covers (a 15-30 minute task on most vehicles). The switch itself is usually secured by one or two Torx screws or a snap-in clip. Total service time is typically 45 to 90 minutes.

Ignition Switch Failure Symptoms

Classic ignition switch failure presents as a vehicle that starts and then dies within seconds -- the key is in the RUN position but the switch contacts have worn past the point of maintaining reliable contact. Dashboard lights, fuel pump priming, and ignition coil power all depend on a solid RUN position connection. When this contact becomes intermittent, the engine runs only as long as the contacts are touching. Other symptoms include: accessories that do not work in ACC position (the ACC contact is failed), no crank response even with a valid transponder key (the START contact is failed or intermittent), a burning smell from the steering column (switch contacts arcing under load), or a car that drains its battery overnight without an obvious parasitic draw (a stuck ACC contact powering accessories with the key out). Distinguishing a switch fault from a cylinder fault is done by feel and electrical testing. If the key turns smoothly and the cylinder clicks cleanly through all positions but the electrical symptoms persist, the switch is the suspect. If the key is stiff or fails to turn to START, the cylinder is the suspect.

Engine starts then immediately dies: RUN contact intermittent
No crank, no start: START contact open or failed
Accessories dead in ACC mode: ACC contact failed
Burning smell from column: contacts arcing
Battery drain overnight: switch contacts stuck in closed position

When You Need This Service

Engine starts briefly then dies with no fault codes

Key turns fully but starter does not engage

Accessories do not power on in the accessory position

You smell burning from the steering column area

The vehicle is part of a recalled batch for known ignition switch defects

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the GM ignition switch recall relevant to my car?

GM's most significant recall (2014-2015) involved the Delta platform vehicles: Chevrolet Cobalt, HHR, Pontiac G5, Solstice, Saturn Ion, and Sky. The defect allowed the key to slip out of RUN if a heavy keychain was attached or if the key was bumped. If you own one of these, check the NHTSA recall database with your VIN to confirm whether the recall was completed on your specific vehicle.

Can the ignition switch be replaced without replacing the cylinder?

Yes. They are separate components and can be replaced independently. If the switch fails but the cylinder is fine, we replace only the switch. If both are worn, we may recommend replacing both at the same time since the labor to access one covers most of the labor for the other.