Ignition Won't Turn or Is Very Hard to Turn

Can't turn the key in the ignition? Steering column locked? Worn cylinder? Here's how to diagnose and fix a stiff or frozen ignition -- and what not to do.

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An ignition cylinder that refuses to turn or requires significant force to turn is one of the most mechanically straightforward problems we diagnose -- but also one that is most commonly made worse by well-intentioned but damaging self-remediation attempts. The first rule: do not force the key. The second rule: identify which of the three primary causes applies before doing anything else.

Possible Causes

Steering column lock binding

Very Common

The steering wheel lock bolt is engaged against the column shaft under tension from the wheel being pushed against the lock.

Wrong key or worn key

Common

A key with an inaccurate cut profile, or a key worn smooth from years of use, no longer operates the tumblers correctly.

Worn or dry ignition cylinder

Moderate

Wafer tumblers are worn, debris is inside the cylinder, or lubrication has dried out.

Bent key

Moderate

Key blade is slightly bent, preventing correct tumbler alignment.

Debris inside cylinder

Less Common

A small object, fragment, or debris has entered the cylinder and is blocking tumbler movement.

The Steering Column Lock -- Almost Always the Cause of Sudden Seizure

If your ignition turned freely last time you used it and suddenly will not turn, the steering column lock is almost certainly the cause. This happens when you turn off the ignition while the front wheels are turned (or the steering wheel is turned), and the steering lock bolt engages against the column shaft. The weight of the vehicle can then push the wheels harder against the turn, loading the lock bolt under tension against the column. The fix: while attempting to turn the key, gently rock the steering wheel left and right -- just slight movements. You will feel a slight give when the wheel moves in the direction that releases lock bolt tension. Apply gentle key-turning pressure while rocking the wheel and the ignition should release. This works virtually every time the cause is the column lock. If it does not work after several attempts with gentle pressure in different wheel-turn directions, move to other causes.

Key Inspection and Replacement

A key that worked yesterday and is stiff today suggests wear. Hold the key flat and look down the blade edge -- a visibly bent blade (even slightly) will cause tumbler binding at the point of the bend. A key worn smooth (cuts no longer have sharp edges, the blade looks buffed) may not lift the tumblers to the correct height. A fresh-cut key from your key code (the code associated with your VIN, usually obtainable through your dealer's records or from a locksmith with the correct code reference) resolves both bent and worn key issues. We can cut a fresh key from code and compare it against your existing key profile to identify any wear.

Do This

Try rocking the steering wheel gently while turning the key -- this resolves column lock binding
Inspect the key blade for visible bending or wear
Try the spare key if available
Use dry graphite powder on the key blade if the cylinder is dry (not oil-based lubricants)

Don't Do This

Don't force the key with excessive torque -- this breaks keys inside the cylinder
Don't spray liquid lubricants into the cylinder (WD-40, oil, silicone spray)
Don't assume the cylinder needs replacement before checking the simpler causes

Frequently Asked Questions

The key turned with a grinding sound and now won't turn at all -- what happened?

Grinding typically indicates a wafer tumbler has broken inside the cylinder. A broken wafer can shift to block the plug from rotating. This requires cylinder service -- either removing and repairing the cylinder (replacing the broken wafer) or replacing the cylinder entirely.